True Ambergris is one of the most valued perfume ingredients, and is a proven aphrodisiac. Unfortunately, ambergris is also rare, and most of what passes for ambergris today is synthetic. Ounce for ounce, real ambergris is more valuable than gold. But because it comes from an endangered species, it is illegal to sell ambergris in many countries, even when a healthy whale secretes it and it is found washed up on the shore.

Many of the molecules in ambergris are cholesterol derrivatives. Sex hormones like testosterone and estrogen are cholesterol derrivatives. See where this is going? Ambrein is one such cholesterol derrivative, and it is a major component of ambergris. Ambrein has been shown to increase sexual activity in mice. According to one study, "Ambrein produced recurrent episodes of penile erection, a dose-dependent, vigorous and repetitive increase in intromissions and an increased anogenital investigatory behavior, identifying the drug used in the present study as a sexual stimulant." (PMID:8540767)

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Another study found that ambrein increased levels of "several anterior pituitary hormones and serum testosterone" in humans. (PMID :11758796)

Another (non-aphrodisiac) use for ambergris in the traditions of the Middle East is for pain relief; its effectiveness has been confirmed by a study showing that ambrein has an analgesic effect. (PMID:1479744)

The Scent

Ambergris (or its synthetic alternatives) have historically been added to both men's and women's perfumes. Some of the Drakkar Noir mens products currently contain synthetic ambergris compounds.

Ambergris oil goes on smelling something like myrrh and other exotic woody smells - it brings to mind some incenses, although none that I could name. I don't know how universal this impression is, but there is something in the ambergris odor that makes one part of my mind spin. There is a slight musky note, but that is subtle. Initially, there is a scent reminiscent of burning plastic, but that is gone within an hour. After a while, ambergris becomes sweeter and a little powdery on the skin. Others have described ambergris as basalmic, with 'somewhat tobacco-like notes,' or compared it to old paper.

Ambergris is extremely persistent; a drop can last several days on the skin, and much longer on clothing in a closet.

Buying Ambergris

The legality of ambergris is not clear in all countries. Because it is from the endangered Sperm Whale, some countries have banned its trade. But ambergris today is generally obtained by beach combers that find it washed ashore, and collecting and using it does not endanger the whales.

In the United States, the government did not reply to a request calling for a clear decision on whether ambergris is legal.

Singapore is the center for the trade of ambergris and other exotic (and aphrodisiac) scents like Oud. Some Singapore perfumers will ship ambergris oil internationally.

Many perfumes today use synthesized ambrein. One supplier that sells small amounts is Perfumers World; they sell a synthetic version of ambrein called ambroxan, which cost $2.75 per gram at last check. Ambroxan has been described as cleaner than ambergris, but less rich and complex ... not suprising given the fact that true amber is a complex and variable mixture, while ambroxan is chemically defined.

Some have described ambergris as whale vomit. Sure, just like a pearl is a scab from an oyster. Ambergris is a whale secretion, but it is not undigested food. It is a compound that appears to be produced for wound healing after the stomach of a whale is injured or irritated. Large lumps of ambergris can be worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, assuming they wash ashore in countries where it is legal.

The word ambergris comes from the French meaning grey amber; this was to distinguish it from fossilized amber used in jewelry.

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